Should I Bleach to Clean or Remove Mold?

Contractors who are NOT educated in mold removal follow the Oregon "Renter's Handbook on Mold", CDC "Homeowners and Renters Guide to Mold Cleanup After Disasters" and "Mold Clean Up Guidelines and Recommendations" to "use 1 cup bleach, or soap, with 1 gallon water to remove mold on walls and ceilings".  However, Micro Certified Mold Inspectors and Remediators will not use bleach, nor will educated flood extraction contractors use bleach on porous surfaces. 

Yes, bleach will kill mold on hard surfaces like glass and tile flooring, but it cannot remove mold on or in porous materials like tile grout, drywall, wood, and concrete. When bleach is used in mold remediation, the sodium hypochlorite evaporates and only water is left behind. The mold "appears" to have been removed, but you have just fed the spores growing on or underneath the surface by making the material they were growing in damp with water. In a few weeks to months, the mold spores will reappear and the species will flurish.

Use the guidance in the CDC Homeowners and Renters Guide to Mold Cleanup After Disasters as a "hard surface only" cleaning agent. Check with accredited mold specialists like the EPA ,  AIHA , ECO Flood & Mold Remediation 

WARNING: Bleaching mold involves using a chemical solution that produces a harmful vapor and releasing a mist and discolors anything nearby. Bleach can irritate eyes, nose, and mouth. Never mix bleach with amonia or other chemicals.

Dirty filters restrict airflow, reduce efficiency, and trap organic particles that feed mold. Like an HVAC system, a mini split circulates mold spores throughout the room when it is operating. This can trigger allergic reactions to sensitive individuals. Symptoms may include sneezing, coughing, itchy eyes, a runny nose, and skin rashes. 

If you notice a damp, musty, or earthy odor coming from the mini split unit when it is first turned on, it may be an indication of mold growing. To check for visible mold, use a flashlight to carefully inspect the supply vents or louvers where the air blows out. Is there fuzzy growth of black, brown, white, or green spots? 

TO CHECK: Ventilate the room by opening a window or door by the mini split. Turn the power to the unit off at the circuit breaker. With gloves, mask, and safety glasses on, open the front panel and examine the filters and the area around the evaporator coil.

TO CLEAN: Avoid using bleach, as this can damage the fins of the evaporator coil and may not fully kill the mold on porous surfaces. Wash the filters with warm soapy water and allow to air dry completely. Mix equal parts of white vinegar and water, or a tablespoon of dish soap in warm water, to wipe down any visible discoloration or growth patterns inside and outside the front panel, evaporator coils, blower wheel, and condensation drain line. Reassembly the unit after everything is dry. Restore power at the circuit breaker and turn the system on in fan-only mode for 30 to 45 minutes to help dry out any remaining moisture.

Contractors who are NOT Micro Certified, will often:

• Use BLEACH on porous materials. 
• Clean Stachybotrys instead of remove it.
• Paint or Cover over Water Damage. 
• Remove Drywall with moisture. 
• Report & Sample Incorrectly. 
• Fog instead of Remediate. 
• Fail to use Sealant.

If the contractor is not accurate, and mold continues to grow; your insurance coverage may be declined. Don't risk your health and your building's investment. Call us today for a Free Assessment!